Single cuffs, the most formal style, usually only worn with formal evening wear (i.e.Double, or French, cuffs, which have an extra length of sleeve folded back and fastened with links, and are usually considered more formal than barrel cuffs.Barrel cuffs, the standard style fastened by one or two buttons according to taste.The main distinctions between cuffs are whether they require buttons or cufflinks to fasten, and whether they are folded back ( double) or single. Winchester shirts have fallen in and out of fashion over time but became strongly associated with the financial industry in the 1980s when the character Gordon Gekko wore Winchester shirts in the film Wall Street.ĭouble cuffs have an extra length of sleeve folded back and fastened with links. This style is a remnant of when shirts had detachable collars and the collars were (usually) only available in white. "Winchester" shirts are colored or patterned shirts that have a contrasting white collar (conceivably of any style) and, sometimes, contrasting white cuffs.Shirts designed to take a detachable collar have a tunic collar, which is a low standing band of fabric around the neck, with a hole at the front and back for the collar studs.The varsity is a type of spread collar in which the points curve outward from the placket of the shirt.They received a surge in popularity due to television shows like Downton Abbey. Club collars have rounded edges, and were very popular in the first few decades of the twentieth century.The tabs can be closed with a metal snap, button or stud. These lift the tie, giving an arc effect similar to a pinned collar. Tab collars are point collars with two strips of fabric extending from the middle of the collar and joined behind the tie.
The less-common styles below were all once common, but have waned in popularity. The British polo player's shirt was found in the UK by John E Brooks in 1896 and copied by Brooks Brothers after his return to the USA. Originally a British sports (football, cricket, polo, etc.) shirt.
Button-down collar (sport collar) with a button-fastening point on the front of the shirt.Point, straight, or small collars are narrow, with 2 + 1⁄ 2 to 4 inches (64 to 102 mm) between the points of the collar.This city style is more formal, though it is common in Europe, and predominant in the UK. Spread collars measure from around 3 + 1⁄ 2 to 8 + 1⁄ 2 inches (89 to 216 mm) between the collar points, and the wider collars are often referred to as cutaway or Windsor collars after the Duke of Windsor.Those discussed here are all attached collars, not styles specific to detachable collars. There are various styles of collar, which is the primary indicator of the formality of a shirt. Spread collars measure from around 3 + 1⁄ 2 to 8 + 1⁄ 2 inches (89 to 216 mm) between the collar points. Components Ī shirt has several components: A one-piece back, which is usually pleated, gathered, or eased into a section of fabric in the upper part of the back behind the neck and over the shoulders known as the yoke (either one-piece or seamed vertically in the middle) one-piece sleeves with plackets at the wrist, or else short-sleeved (cut off above the elbow), though this is not traditional a band of fabric around each wrist known as a cuff the collar, a strip around the neck, which is normally a turndown collar, with the strip folded down away from the neck, leaving two points at the front, the width of which is known as the spread and finally two front panels which overlap slightly down the middle on the placket to fasten with buttons (or rarely shirt studs). However, in the mid-1800s, they also became an item of women's clothing and are worn by both sexes today. Traditionally dress shirts were worn by men and boys, whereas women and girls often wore blouses, sometimes known as chemises. The shirt was worn under the Justaucorps in the 18th century
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